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The Simplicity of the Saudi Outdoors

Sunday, January 27, 2008

Saudi Arabia provides a very interesting case of a society aggressively welcoming the indoors-oriented 21st century but equally mindful of its passion for nature and the outdoors.

I've spent the past 5 years in Riyadh and have been witness to an amazing economic boom taking place, with a construction pace only bested by the likes of Dubai and Beijing. But even though malls and business offices are filling the Riyadh skyline and the Saudis are getting plugged in (Internet, satellite dishes, 3G cell phones, etc.), they somehow are still retaining their connection to the outdoors.

The most popular pastime remains weekend outings to the desert or to the local park. There are a number of public parks sprinkled throughout the city and during the weekend, you'll be hard-pressed to find a patch of grass to sit on. To meet the high demand, there are even a handful of private parks, available to those willing to pay a small entry fee.

You see, everyone flocks to the park at weeks end. Most people either live in apartment flats or homes that lack a front/backyard. So the women and children are cooped up indoors without a place to roam outside their homes. And if they ever dared to venture outside, the neighborhoods are not designed to allow for casual strolls, with the absence of sidewalks and presence of drivers oblivious to the concept of pedestrian right-of-way. Thus, the only remedy is to spend a few hours in the park.

To that end, you'll see families gathering at parks, men sitting on one blanket grilling some kebabs, women sitting on another blanket sipping tea, and kids running around wreaking havoc. These grass-filled parks are especially nice as greenery is an scarce commodity in the desert oasis of Riyadh.

People here are so starved for outdoor activities, that I've seen many families park their cars at the outer limits of the huge mall parking lots (where traffic is sparse). They lay out a blanket on the concrete and proceed to have a small picnic with their kids enjoying the open space. I've actually done that myself with some friends – while our wives were inside shopping, we took the kids outside to play in the parking lot (away from traffic, of course) and relaxed on a small patch of grass.

However, if the crowded scene of the parks in the city is not your cup of tea, the expansive desert that surrounds Riyadh provides a more serene setting.

What really amazes me is the widespread popularity of the desert. At first, I didn't understand the appeal of spending time in the desert – isn't that where the merciless sun beats down on its visitors and scavenging vultures circle overhead?

So I was initially surprised when I heard that droves of families go out to the desert as a social outlet. It was only after I tried it myself that I found something eerily calming with the open desert. The lack of visual distractions really forces a more meditative frame of mind. The adults seem to engage in more introspective discussions while the kids are forced to entertain themselves in innovative ways.

And when nightfall arrives, the obligatory campfire brings its natural flickering light to the dark abyss of the surrounding desert. Sitting around the fire, drinking Arabic coffee and munching on dates, under the starry sky, surrounded by friends and family brings out the romantic in even the most hardest of hearts.

I find this magnetic relationship with the outdoors programmed into the social fabric of this society – and I'm not simply restricting it to the Saudis. Many of the participants are in fact expats from all over the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent. It's so refreshing to see this zeal for the outdoors very much alive, starkly contrasting the murky electronic age in which most of us are mired.

And what's most wonderful is the simplicity surrounding these social settings. Whereas entertainment in the West often revolves around an event, such as a concert or a ballgame or a carnival, laying down a blanket in a park or the desert is a sublime act of the greatest simplicity requiring nothing more than a group of family and friends, accentuated with some nice mint tea.

Sunday, January 27, 2008 | Labels: life in Saudi Arabia |  

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8 comments:

Anonymous said...

I'm getting nostalgic. Nahda park was awesome! I donno if it still is.

January 27, 2008 at 2:30 PM
Anonymous said...

Assalamu alaikum

I think the whole idea of spending time outdoors especially in fairly secluded areas like parking lots and such (and often well after midnight) is aided by the fact that the Gulf is one of the safest regions in the world. I mean, can you imagine doing something like that in the developing or even the developed world where you are always looking over your shoulder afraid of getting mugged?

Saudis may be the favourite people for the Ummah to point fingers at, but gotta give credit where it's due.

January 27, 2008 at 7:07 PM
Anonymous said...

AA Naeem. You said:

"Sitting around the fire, drinking Arabic coffee and munching on dates, under the starry sky, surrounded by friends and family brings out the romantic in even the most hardest of hearts."

That was so beautiful, if I had money I'd pack my bags and the family and come to Riyadh today!

January 28, 2008 at 8:56 PM
Anonymous said...

ps: That was Sahra

January 28, 2008 at 8:56 PM
Naeem: said...

AA-

@Islamblog.org, yeah Nahda park is still there. I went there only once as its on the opposite side of town. But its very unique in its design and its location (between the two roads). How long ago were you here in Riyadh?

@Anon, good point on the security issue. I seem to have taken that for granted having been here for some time. Its amazing how I would have no problem sitting in a dark, secluded parking lot with my family with no fear for our safety.

@Sahra, alas money isn't your only obstacle in jumping on a plane to Riyadh. There's that whole nasty visa problem. :-(

January 29, 2008 at 11:58 AM
JDsg said...

You've obviously never lived in Arizona if you're only now discovering the joys of walking in a desert. ;) One of the great joys of walking in a desert is the absolute silence, if you're able to get away from people enough, so that the only thing you might hear is yourself and the wind, insha'allah. Of course, a lot of people can't handle such silence, being too used to their daily soundtrack of soft hums and other noises in the background.

January 29, 2008 at 1:49 PM
Anonymous said...

How long ago were you here in Riyadh?

I grew up in Riyadh 1983-1997. We had (and still have) many relatives in KSA but surprisingly we found a very nice social group in other Indian and Pakistani families [about a dozen or so from each country :-) ]

Outings were a weekly thing. Man we'd so look forward to Wednesday! Parks, Barbeques.. just like you described it.

It is clearly a unique way of socializing that is somehow missed by people 'back home.' It's either they don't have time or they don't enjoy the outdoors as much or a mix of both.

January 29, 2008 at 3:20 PM
Naeem: said...

AA- Jdsg,

"You've obviously never lived in Arizona if you're only now discovering the joys of walking in a desert. ;)"

Hey, give us Northeasterners a break! :-) Yeah, I'll admit, its a shame that I never got to appreciate the desert until I came here.

"One of the great joys of walking in a desert is the absolute silence, if you're able to get away from people enough, so that the only thing you might hear is yourself and the wind"

Bro, you reminded me of my experience at the edge of Riyadh, on the highway leading to Mecca. As you're driving west out of Riyadh, you hit this huge drop-off (seems like Riyadh is situated on a plateau), so we pulled off the highway and drove up to the edge. Subhan'Allah, I've never experienced such silence. Amazing!

Maybe I'll post the pics from that trip...

January 30, 2008 at 12:20 PM

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