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Despising Ramadan in Riyadh

Thursday, July 19, 2012

I have come to despise Ramadan in Riyadh. True, despise is a harsh emotion, but you may come to join me once you meander through the recesses of my mind…

It all started when we first arrived to the kingdom. We experienced our first Ramadan in a Muslim land – and it was exhilarating. Ramadan was no more a muffled observance by a religious minority – it was a proud experience causing greater society to unashamedly shout out its undying love for the One.  Ramadan ceased to be a state of aberration, with Muslims scuttling to their spiritual outposts in the scant Masjids dotting the American landscape, desperately seeking the company of fellow fasting Muslims. In Riyadh, the streets and shops were abuzz with a celebratory mood most deserving of Ramadan and every corner found a masjid alive with daily iftars and nightly prayers.

It was simply intoxicating.

And as with all intoxicants, the high was short-lived, superficial, and extremely ungratifying.

After almost ten Ramadans in Saudi Arabia, I’m convinced there is no real understanding of and even less appreciation for this sacred month. Ramadan has become a priceless painting collecting dust in the garage of a cultural boor.

From the Mercy of the One who has no limit to His Mercy, we are presented with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. every. single. year. And this gift is squandered by the vast majority as they simply reshuffle their schedules and adjust their bodies to adapt to the various Ramadan ‘inconveniences’.

Ramadan is supposed to be the month of starving the nafs and feeding the heart. Instead, they pamper their bodies by sleeping all day and indulge their nafs by waking all night.

All year long we have unjustly imprisoned our hearts. We’ve clothed them in the orange jumpsuits of dunya, blinded them with the black hoods of our passions, surrounded them with the walls of our desires, callously scoffed at their requests for (spiritual) nourishment, and severed all ties with their kith and kin (the people of dhikr).

Yet, the Most Loving (swt) gives us a chance to undo all this damage beset upon our hearts. He has presented before us a succulent buffet of spiritual subsistence and invited our hearts to plunge into it. This, the month of the heart, has been carefully designed by our Lord to help us reenergize our enervated souls while wreaking chaos on our nafs. Allah (swt) has installed mechanisms to debilitate the voracious appetite of the nafs – no food, no drink, no spousal relations.  Knowing our nature and its addiction to these fuels of the nafs, Allah has instated a month-long embargo as an aid to our developing an alternative heart-based energy; an energy that is infinitely cleaner and infinitely enduring.

And what do my bungling hosts do with this gem? Instead of restraining the nafs, they give it carte blanche throughout the night. Shops are readily available to fancy any and every craving. Restaurants are filled with those filling the vessels of their insatiable appetites. Social gatherings are rescheduled to the wee hours of the night. Coffee shops are filled with patrons chatting away the last thirds of the night.

Starve the nafs?

Nay, this month has become a celebration of the nafs!

It has been transformed into a toothless vestige that is now celebrated like other vile, commercial holidays.

Oh, how urgently our hearts are in need of the REAL Ramadan!

We have failed to realize the nature of our hearts. Like our bodies that we are so quick to titillate with every possible sensation, our hearts too need nourishment. They hunger for a provision that has Divine ingredients. They long to be entertained by passions and joys furnished by their Creator.

Yet, the one time of the year in which the most Merciful has laid out the red carpet, we spurn His favors, choosing instead to find alternative ways to suckle our ever-dependent nafs.

Sad to say, but Ramadan in Riyadh is catered for feeding the nafs, not the heart.  What nourishment does one offer the heart with the endless Iftar buffets lavishly laid out at countless restaurants?  What benefit do the accommodating shopping hours provide to the heart? What value is it to the heart spending all night laughing and playing in an istiraha*? What else but the nafs is fed from the special TV dramas and comedies featured in Ramadan?

Alas, in such an environment, replete with devices designed to anchor down our heaven-aspiring hearts, should not one despise it? Indifference is worse, no? I’ve tried for the past few years to no avail. Maybe you’ll suggest empathy; after all we should feel sorry for the misguided. But would you dare suggest empathy towards an abusive husband? I declare abusing the heart is worse.

Yes, scorn is most fitting.  Not for the people, but for the society. And I fear that my scorn would not be limited to Riyadh if I had but the chance to experience Ramadan in other Muslim lands.

*An Istiraha (trans. 'place of rest’) is a small enclosed park-like facility, usually rented out for an entire day (or night) by a few families. It usually includes separate sitting areas for men and women, an open grass area, a small pool, and a kitchen. Public parks are crowded, unclean, and not private, so an istiraha is the destination of choice for many families.

Thursday, July 19, 2012 | Labels: life in Saudi Arabia, war on nafs |  

This entry was posted on Thursday, July 19, 2012 and is filed under life in Saudi Arabia , war on nafs . You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

 

17 comments:

Anonymous said...

I suppose you have to weigh up the benefits of where you are (at other times of the year) against the harms - and ask yourself if it's worth it.

Would you prefer to spend Ramadan back in a minority context?

July 19, 2012 at 2:48 PM
The Shardul of Allah said...

Well, I can say the same about Ramadan here in Qatar. Ramadan is all about food extravaganza during iftaar time, shopping spree during night, and sleep during the day.

However, there are still some benefits of observing Ramadan in a Muslim country that we may not get in a non-Muslim country. Like the work hours have been reduced to 5 hours from normal 8 hours schedule, and there are not much fitna there in the streets. Thus if a person wants to attain something memorable during Ramadan, he or she can do so. He or she will just have to do the opposite of what the majority are doing.

July 20, 2012 at 6:00 PM
Naeem: said...

AA-

@DL, definitely true about the pros and cons of being in a Muslim land. Although I didn't say it, the presence of the Mecca and Madina outweighs the negatives I listed in the post....for now.

Would I prefer to go back to experiencing Ramadan in the West? I'm 50-50 on that, which is a big change from my 100% pro-Ramadan-in-KSA stance from a few years back...

@Shard, yeah, I figure Ramadan in most Gulf countries is pretty much like KSA. I wonder how it is on other Muslim lands (Malaysia, Egypt, Pakistan, etc.)??

I agree on your positive points. My post wasn't a comprehensive presentation of all the pros and cons of Ramadan in Riyadh...just a focus on the most important issue for me.

July 20, 2012 at 8:28 PM
Anonymous said...

Wow.

Well written.

I guess it is human nature to take things for granted, and as such, those living in a majority Muslim land will probably tend to appreciate Ramadan and other gifts of this nature less than those out in the non-Muslim lands, who tend to try and stick to their Muslim identity as a response to the fitnah surrounding them.

Which is worse? That is the golden question.

Saqib

July 22, 2012 at 12:01 PM
Sumera said...

Its true, most other Muslim countries are the same. It truly is sad.

July 23, 2012 at 2:49 PM
Susanne said...

Sounds similar to how Christmas has been so commercialized.

July 23, 2012 at 7:33 PM
HITEC said...

Celebrating individualistic choices even though they maybe shortsighted, materialistic, selfish & void of heavenly guidance or duty is in vogue brother. As dubai says: pl. spare me the tales of yr poverty - so do Muslim lands say: pl. spare me the tales of yr sincerty. Pity us one & all.

July 27, 2012 at 2:10 AM
Dudey said...

I agree with you on this 100% ...Recently, I read an overview of a "Ramadan-festival" in Dubai that "showcases the month's joy in it's souk full of themed-merchandise, (and get this -->) singing and dancing!" -___-

Also, I've been a regular reader for years, only just gotten to comment now that I've begun my own blog - do check it out: www.onahighoat.blogspot.com

July 31, 2012 at 6:05 PM
Unknown said...

Naeem, wow, very wonderfully written.You style of writing is a Modern day Ghazalli, it's ironic because I feel here in the west,the constant need to guard the true essence of ramadan. May Allah Guide us All!

August 3, 2012 at 7:28 AM
Unknown said...

Naeem, wow, very wonderfully written.You style of writing is a Modern day Ghazalli, it's ironic because I feel here in the west,the constant need to guard the true essence of ramadan. May Allah Guide us All!

August 3, 2012 at 7:29 AM
RCHOUDH said...

You're absolutely right brother, I also believe we've lost the true meaning and essence of Ramadhan here. I also found it disconcerting how often Muslims here like to eat out and stay up all night during Ramadhan. And I never did understand what the point of those Ramadhan TV serials is; aren't we Muslims also going on about avoiding being too exposed to the TV throughout the rest of the year? So why do we indulge in TV during the most blessed month of the year?? I believe this loss of rewards during the Ramadhan is just a symptom of the Ummah's general decline. There are various other Islamic concepts and actions that the current day Ummah is severely lacking in understanding unfortunately.

August 3, 2012 at 7:13 PM
Naeem: said...

AA-

Sorry for such a late reply folks...been busy with Ramadan.

@Saqib, yes, that is very much a living question in my mind. I'm constantly finding myself teetering back and forth on that very question. But I always find myself leaning back towards the Muslim country option. Maybe that's a conversation for another post.

@Sumera, long time. Yeah I figured most are the same, but I think KSA has taken it to an extreme never before seen.

@Susanne, who says Islam and Christianity don't have things in common. :-)

@Dudey, thanks for commenting. Funny you should mention Dubai..my friend just showed me these crazy pics of Iftar in Atlantis where there was also singing and dancing. Maybe you were referring to that? Insane.

August 4, 2012 at 7:56 AM
Anonymous said...

Salam. Thanks for highlighting this important issue. I grew up in KSA (Jeddah) in the eighties and at that time things were beginning to take shape towards what has become now. I am very sorry about what has come to be.

Since you asked about other Muslim countries, I am in Morocco currently and here is what happens here. People eat a light iftar at maghrib (alhamdulillah for that) and then a heavy meal after taraweeh and then a heavy suhoor. In big cities, after taraweeh, shops and cafes are abuzz. Even clubs get into the act -- the otherwise non-practising Muslims go to the clubs after they have broken their fasts*. People have become accustomed to staying awake until suhoor time and wasting their time with TV, trivial socializing, etc.

naeem (not blog author)

* I have always wondered: why fasting is popular/fashionable among some of the non-practising Muslims. They will not pray, don't give zakah, don't do other good things, will not consider going to hajj, but will do fasts.

August 10, 2012 at 5:40 PM
U A Jung said...

Salams. Thank you for a frank and thought-provoking post. May Allah grant us all the true spirit of Ramadan.

You may be interested, all be it belated, in there following new blog that touches upon similar themes: www.thehumblei.com

The particular post on it may be relevant here: http://thehumblei.com/2012/08/17/ibn-rajab-al-hanbali-bidding-farewell-to-ramadan/

August 26, 2012 at 10:44 PM
U A Jung said...

Salams. Thank you for a frank and thought-provoking piece. May Allah grant us all the spirit of Ramadan. Amin.

You may find the following blog relevant and of interest: www.thehumblei.com

It also has a piece of the spirit of Ramadan: http://thehumblei.com/2012/08/17/ibn-rajab-al-hanbali-bidding-farewell-to-ramadan/

August 26, 2012 at 10:48 PM
Unknown said...

Ramadan is one of the most important ISlamic holidays. This Ramadan, I am wishing everyone to be blessed by Allah. Ramadan Mubarak to all Muslims all over the globe. Have a blessed and peaceful Ramadan.

July 7, 2013 at 1:37 PM
Anonymous said...

I have 2 acquaintances/old friends who returned from saudi back home to the US.

Subhanallah after 5 years in Egypt I absolutely love Ramadan here. Brother seriously if you ever decide to move back home try Egypt. Even thru the turmoil I find egypt unmatched when comparing experiences of ppl in various arabic speaking countries.
Subhanallah there is a gem of a school here the likes of which I almost suspect doesn't exist anywhere in the muslim world. That is the real icing on the cake here.

March 29, 2014 at 7:15 AM

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Naeem:
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